My horizontal sander is a unit imported by Powermatic; it is very similar (if not identical to) many other units imported by others. The reason I bought this brand over others is that it was the only model that advertised a cast iron platen.

The tilt function works but is rather crude, there is no way to dial in an angle. The tilt angle clamp works and there are stops for the 90 degree angle. The problem in setting any angle is that when the iron table is moved up or down, the platen angle may no longer be true. There is enough slop in the table mechanism to throw any existing angle setting off. I’ve rarely used the angle function; in effect, for me it didn’t turn out to be that useful of a feature.

The main table has a miter gauge slot and the machine comes with a miter gauge. The machine also comes with a 90 degree sanding jig that uses this slot. The main table is adjusted via two hand screws located underneath it. In theory the main table can be adjusted for bias (angled with respect to belt travel) however the adjustment is small and causes other problems when used; the table can also be adjusted in height. The radius sanding end of the machine has its own table which has no true adjustment features to make it’s surface co-planar with the main table.

The dust shield is a simple sheet metal affair that works a little better than nothing at all. When using the machine for radius work the dust collection is basically zero. It isn’t required for machine operation but when in use the machine can produce clouds of sanding dust therefore like any big sander dust collection is highly desirable; a 4" duct and 650cfm collector is probably the minimum dust collection system for this machine; a shop vac or even a smaller diameter hose is not adequate.

The motor direct drives the belt and is sufficiently powerful for most tasks. However, it is possible to bog the motor down when using a low grit number belt or if the operator is very aggressive when removing material. The switch gear used to control the machine is not too exceptional, they are direct wired switches but the snap action is not as good as other machines in my shop. One effect of this is that when the OFF button is depressed lightly, the machine may not turn off.

To that end I built a six-drawer cabinet that the sander would sit upon just like the previous stand. This new cabinet is about twice as large as the original stand to take advantage of the entire machine footprint. For mobility, the cabinet has wheels and castors integrated into it. The rear wheels are 8" rubber tires with roller bearings that are mounted to a rigid axle. The castors are 4" rubber tires. The large diameter wheels make this machine the easiest to move of all I own.

The temporary stand I made used an in-line toggle clamp to keep the machine from creeping away when in use. I had planned on using the same method on this stand but it was not needed. The machine does not creep away even when bearing down on the machine when in use. Another benefit of the cabinet was that the machine vibration diminished greatly.

The second modification deals with dust collection. I built a replacement for the sheet metal dust shroud. The new shroud includes a flip-top to more fully enclose the belt and still allow for convenient belt changes. Near the DC port I’ve installed a contoured block inside the shroud. This block creates a high-pressure zone that impedes the air-flow created by the belt; this prevents nearly any dust from continuing to follow the path of the belt to the back side of the machine. Without this device, the dust collection is noticeably degraded. A brush could probably be used in place of the block, it may even work better.

The new shroud also includes a flip-down funnel; this funnel is down normally and aids dust collection quite a bit. Also, (due to the airflow induced by the belt) the dust collection when the machine is used for radius work is still pretty good. I had originally planned on making an extension for the funnel to use when radius sanding but since the dust collection is better than anticipated I have not done so.

I have two other modifications planned for this machine. The most beneficial will be to create a system so that I can bias the table. This would involve cutting an inch or so from the table support framework which would be a little difficult with the machine assembled. I would have to devise a new attachment for the table and a hinge for the motor end of the table. Since I don’t use the tilt mechanism anyway, I’ll bolt the machine in its 90 degree setting and build a table mechanism that does not go out of alignment when biased. The benefit of doing all this work is that the belt will have more even wear characteristics when operated with the table biased and is less likely to burn or develop "dull" bands.

For almost $700, I don’t feel this machine and ones like it are very good values. For that amount of money, the dust collection, angle setting controls, and table movement should be much better than they are. It is unfortunate that the machine is no better than it is, the true value of this machine (as originally built) should be about $400. Because of the cost, at this point I am unsure as to whether or not I should have just built one from scratch or bought a bigger and better (more expensive) machine instead.