Although not clearly evident, two of the major design goals for the shop are fulfilled here.  I wanted to have the ability to walk up to any of the major power tools and use them without having to move them into position or hook up electrical, air, or DC connectors.  Since these tool groups are located out in the middle of the shop, there are conduit, air line, and DC pipes run under the concrete to them.  The other major goal fulfilled is basically to have a lot of free area to work in.

All these are what I would call "medium use" storage; stuff I don't need all the time, but stuff I don't want to have to walk too far to get.  That last bit is one of the realities I've noticed in this shop compared to my old one, walking distance can be a factor - nice problem to have I guess.

The lowest cabinet in the corner is re-purposed from something else and works out well since it allows a little extra room for any extremely long material to the right of the drill press.

In addition, I have several different types of cleat based holders for all sorts of things.  These are usually simple scraps of plywood with a dowel or other type of device installed to hold an object.

While I had the spray gun out one day I decided to paint these little holder deals the same color as the wall.  This helped remarkably to make these things virtually disappear into the wall.

The cleats on the wall are just strips of plywood cut at a 45 degree angle on the top and screwed to the wall with 3" screws.  All told, I cut up 3 entire sheets of 3/4" plywood to get enough material to run the cleats around the walls at various heights.  I could have easily found a place for a 4th sheet worth of material.  There are several rows of cleats spaced at different heights for flexibility. 

You can probably tell here I sheathed the interior walls on OSB and painted them a light neutral color.

This unit is attached to the wall with the French cleat system described above.  I held it off of the floor for cleaning purposes and since doing this made the unit have a large cantilever there is a small "foot" at the end to offset that.  The "foot" is a small aluminum leg screwed to the unit.

The cabinet itself is comprised of two units, the "rack" and the end piece which holds several small hand clamps and other items.   I made this entire unit of this out of scrap materials and painted it white to make it look decent.

The "rack" is an old hollow core door flanked by a couple of pieces of plywood.  There are some angled cleats attached to the plywood which hold some half inch black pipe upon which the long clamps rest, the pipe is removable and spaced strategically to match the clamps I own.

The end piece is very simple but incorporates a miniature version of the French cleat system to hold all the items on it.  I have several types of clamps, I tend to prefer the K-body style so that is what is nearest the bench. 

To the right of the bench is a counter with a row of drawer units.  These hold a variety of things that are more frequently used than the "bulk" items on the wall opposite.  The counter serves as my "sacrificial horizontal surface.  basically a place to set stuff somewhere besides the workbench.

I also discovered that I was running out of wall space in my huge new shop.  to help solve that, I decided that I would create a little bit of "extra wall" space with a large peninsula cabinet.

Not shown are a series of five drawers with full extension slides to hold all my most commonly used power tools like drills and routers and such.  At the top of the cabinet are some door units, two sets of doors on either side.  The south side has a large area with a small French cleat system to hold various jigs and accessories associated with the tablesaws nearby.

The end of the peninsula is where I have most of the highly used tools, ones that I don't even want to have to open a drawer or door to get to.

In my old shop these types of things were on peg boards and that's what I had originally intended to do here.  I have had such good luck with the cleat system elsewhere I decided to scale it down for this and it works great.  To the left of the entry door is another small tool holder cabinet.

The machine on the right is a standard contractor type saw with a custom mobile base including a router table setup and a high end Incra rip fence system.  I usually run this machine with Freud diablo 7 1/4" circular saw blades instead of typical 10" blades.  These blades are a GREAT value.  Their thin kerf is a better fit for the machine and they are so cheap it isn't even worth sharpening them.   They do not have the same cutting depth as a 10" blade but are adequate   about 98% of the time; besides, if I need more depth, I just use the 12" saw.   This contractor saw tends to be used when quick cuts are needed, sheet goods and other larger jobs tend to be cut on the 12" saw.

Why two tablesaws one might ask.  First, I don't NEED two saws, it's a luxury.  Having two saws is nice though and I find that these two compliment one another nicely.  Here's how; one saw tilts right, the other one tilts left.  The Hammer doesn't accommodate a dado cutter, the other saw does.   The Hammer doesn't accept common jigs like a tenon jig, the other one will.  I can also set the machines up for separate operations at the same time.

Suspended freely above the saw means all these items are centrally located and easy to find.  This is a big improvement over having these items laying on the extension table or mislaid elsewhere.

I also keep my shop-made DC remote control switch (fob) here.   I glued small magnets to the back of this so it's easily attached to whatever machine I'm using.

The jointer is an 8" model with a 76" bed, plenty big enough for over 99% of the stuff I work with.  This is basically a copy of the Delta DJ20 with parallelogram beds which make it easy to adjust.  I had considered going to a 12" model when I upgraded from my 6" unit but decided that it wasn't worth the extra cost for me; I hope I don't find myself upgrading in the future.

The "big box thing" to the left is a 15" open end wide belt sander, another reason I don't feel the need for a 15" planer.  This isn't something typically found in a hobbyist shop, it replaces a 16/32 drum sander and is a considerable leap forward by comparison.  It is also the only tool that requires compressed air to operate; it's used to control tracking and belt tension.   Since this tool was part of the original shop plan, I ran a dedicated wire and circuit to serve this one tool.

Notice that all of these tools are hooked up ready to use on a moments notice.  There's plenty of space for materials or a parts cart without interfering with anything.  These are two of the major differences between my old garage work shop and this current one.  The door leads to the tractor bay where I have some additional storage and other systems.

Also seen here is a small metalworking mill.  This isn't something found in most woodworking shops.  I typically use it as a drill press because it has electronic variable speed, something my other drill does not.  It has a cross slide and a tilting head.  Half the reason for having this tool is to do a little metalworking associated with woodworking jigs and such.  It could be that in time this machine will replace my old standard drill press.

I didn't bother to paint the walls in here and I use some lower quality CFL bulbs here as well so the lighting isn't as good as in the main shop area.  One major reason for creating this walled off area is to provide noise isolation for the dust collector and air compressor and it performs this function quite well.  I didn't go to any special lengths here, it's just a stud wall sheathed with OSB on both sides.  Wit the entry door closed and DC running, the noise is considerably reduced in the shop area, this was another major design goal of the shop.

There is a rather large walk up attic space above and to help get things up and down I installed a hoist and made a platform for it.  In the ceiling of the tractor bay there is a cut-out for this.

Note also how the 6" PVC pipe for the dust collector exits the floor and runs high overhead to accommodate this storage and give a long straight run into the cyclone.  I had originally intended to build a large rolling bin for the DC but I think a couple of trash cans are actually easier to handle.

The cyclone is a repainted 2hp Woodsucker unit which is no longer made.  This 2hp unit works well, I'm surprised that I am able to get away with something this small.

The rack shown here is primarily for full length sheets, other smaller cut-offs are stored in an open triangle area underneath the stairs in this area.

I haven't maxed out my storage area yet, the goal is not have too much in the way of sheet goods, lumber is another story.  If I were doing this again I would definitely go with the on end type of storage for sheet goods but the horizontal lumber rack is another story.  It works okay for stuff you don't need to get to much but it isn't the best for sorting through, I think a vertical rack serves better for this.   Ideally, both styles have their place, one for maximizing space, the other for ease of viewing.

If you have any questions, feel free to ask.